Untitled Document
  • 25th June 2011 – Upgrading brake pipe P clips

    This one was just a small job, but following on from installing the brake lines and our post on 4th June, we decided to upgrade the plastic P clips we used to hold the brake pipe in place with better quality stainless steel, rubber insulated P clips. We also used new rubber sealer washers underneath the clips to properly seal the strew holes and prevent any water getting inside the chassis in the future and causing damage. Less importantly, as you won’t see them when the body is back on the car, but aesthetically the clips also now match the style of the P clips used on the near side for the fuel pipe.

  • 19th June 2011 – Clutch release slave cylinder

    A spacer is needed for the bracket holding the clutch release… we  fitted it all together first to get the correct distance required for the spacer and get the position of the brackets correct.

    We then found that the edge of braket and the outer bolt for slave cylinder was very close to the chassis. So we ground down the edge of the brackets to match the edges of the slave cylinder, just to prevent it from hitting if the engine kicked.  Also the second part of the braket was pushing in on the rubber of the slave cylinder so to stop this from happening we also ground it away slightly to give it better clearance.

    We disassembled it all, repainted the brakets after grinding them and then got to work making the spacer from a piece of aluminium on Uncle Dave’s lathe. Then reassembled again with spacer and then finally connected the pipe.

    Job done.

  • 4th June 2011 – Handbrake and prop shaft

    We put in the handbrake lever and prop shaft. These were quite easy to install. We had to source the bolts for the prop shaft, which we got from a Landrover dealer Mark knows, and are from a Landrover Defender. Next we’ll have to fit the prop shaft safety loop.

    The handbrake was installed using counter sunk bolts then we connected the handbrake cable to the hand brake lever. We’ll leave the adjustment until later.

  • 4th June 2011 – Installing fuel lines and fuel pump

    After the brake lines, we moved onto the fuel line installation. Again, we bought the fuel line kit from Gerry at Hawks Cars which included all of the pipes that are needed to go from the fuel tank through to the carb. We bought some insulated stainless steel P clips to mount the fuel line to the vertical face of the chassis tube, and as we did for the brake pipes, measured the position for the clips 7.5inches apart, drilled the holes and used galvanised self tapping screws to secure them. Also as before, feeding the pipe through the rubber grommets and ready made holes on the near side of the chassis. We used a stanley knife to cut a big enough hole in the grommet for the pipe to pass through.

    The Fuel Pump

    We weren’t happy with the mounting for the fuel pump, as there were no rubber anti vibration mounts. This, we thought, might cause trouble later on with vibration once the fuel pump was working. Also having read Stuart Clarkes experience on the 289 Register website about his build and installation of the the fuel pump, we decided to make a triangle bracket to mount the pump to the chassis using 3 anti vibration mounts (2 to be secured through the holes in the chassis, 1 lower down as extra support to keep the pump from flopping over). Fortunately Mark found a couple of brackets on a shelf in the shed that were almost perfect, so all we had to do it drill out the holes a little to get them to fit. We then sprayed them up black.
    As for the anti vibration mounts, we just went down to a local car parts place and managed to get some rubber cotton reel type anti vibration mounts used for the vauxhall vectra. The threads were obviously different so Mark had to use his tap and die set to make a new thread for the screw hole in the chassis. Apart from that it fitted nicely.



    Once mounted using the rubber mountings the fuel pump is pretty solid although can wobble slightly due to the rubber mountings, so we cut a square piece of rubber and super glued that to the chassis directly underneath to protect the chassis should the pump vibrate too much and hit.


    At this stage we can’t do any more with the the lines as the fuel tank is situated within the boot. We’ll have to do the final fit once the body is back on. We hope very soon!

  • 4th June 2011 – Brakes pipe installation

    We decided to get on with installing the brake pipes. We ordered the brake pipe kit from Gerry with the Hawk kit containing all of the pipe and fittings. The build manual shows the rough route for the pipes.

    Running the pipe in

    First thing was to run the pipe down the offside of the chassis. We fitted rubber grommets into the ready made holes in the outrigger and piercing holes through them as we ran the pipe through. We then carefully measured the postions for the P-clips to hold the pipe, 7.5 inches apart. We then drilled the holes and used galvanised self tapping screws to secure them. P-clips are provided in the kit to suit the 3/16” pipe. We actually found there wasn’t quite enough in the pack, so we had run around town looking for a place that sold them in this size. In the end Halfords had some.

    Connecting the rear calipers

    Then we had to connect the pipe to the rear calipers, running the pipe carefully into place. This took a little time and was a bit of a fiddle, connecting and then disconnecting again to get the bends in the pipe just right. We bent the pipe carefully using our hands, ensuring that the pipes didn’t get kinked, but once we had the rough shape we used a vice to get the bends really neat and tidy. We also used a flaring tool to flare the end of the pipe that fit inside the brake pipe unions.

    Connecting up the front calipers

    Next was to run the front brake lines in. We started by fitting the front 4 way adaptor. This is held on by the small threaded bar that comes welded to the chassis. There is one on both sides of the chassis depending on it being a RHD or LHD car. The offside one is used for RHD cars. We secured it in place with a M6 nut. We then put the flexi hoses in, connecting the front calipers to the 4 way adaptor via a short piece of brake pipe (flaring both ends). The offside was quite easy to connect BUT running the brake pipe around to the nearside proved to be a bit more difficult as the engine was in the way. So we jacked the chassis up onto axel stands to gain access to the front cross member from underneath. In hindsight, this would have been easier to do before the engine was installed, but nevertheless we got there eventually. We actually used the same holes to mount the clutch pipe brackets at the same time making the final job very neat and tidy.

    We won’t be able to connect the whole system up yet until the body is back on and the master cylinders pedal box are installed but we have done most of the work now.