Untitled Document
  • 29th July 2011 – Oil Pressure switch and gauge pipe

    Mark got the new oil pressure switch and oil presure gauge today from Real Steel and went about fitting and installing to the engine. He used PTFE tape wrapped tight around the threads giving a really good tight seal on the joints. It then screws directly into the block and fitted the oil pipe connection on the top that will eventually run up behind the dashboard to the oil pressure gauge. The wire for the switch will connect into the end thread and also up to the dash. We’ll wire up the oil pressure light later. 6 pics show his steps.


    This is and extra bit I’ve written, following on from Aaron’s comment about checking that the sender has a good electrical earth.

    As he pointed out, the body of the switch has to earth to the engine and when there is no oil pressure the contact in the oil pressure switch should be closed and therefore there should be 0(zero) OHMS (or close to Zero OHMS) resistance between the centre switch contact and the engine. When there is oil pressure (i.e when the engine is running), the contact is then broken in the switch and would then turn the light out. So if the PTFE tape was stopping the connection between the body of the switch and engine then the oil light would never come on.

    There is a simple way to check there is a good connection. Simply using a multi-meter and switching it to OHM’s resistance, then without the engine running put one lead on the end connection of the switch and the other lead on the engine (as on pic below). You should see round 0(zero) OHMs. If the resistance is too high then you may need to remove some of the PTFE tape so that you get a good seal but also a good connection.


    Thanks to Aaron for contacting us and pointing this out

    ——–


  • 22nd July 2011 – Cutting the hole for the pedal box

    After cutting the side vetns, next was the pedal box hole. This was a little more fiddly due to its position at the end of the foot well. Again the position for the hole was marked into the glass fibre body, so using this as a guide, we got to work marking it up using masking tape.

    TIP… Next, and importantly, use a second line of masking tape to mark the hole approximately 1cm inside the original line. This will allow a small lip behind the peddle box that can be sealed cleanly when you fit the peddle box and master cylinder.

    Once all marked up we drilled the corners, then using a small saw, cut around the edges marked by the second line of masking tape.

    Other extras we might consider.

    Once again after inspecting some of the beautiful 289 Register members cars at the Silverstone show, we have decided what we might do is wield an extra metal flange around the pedal box unit for extra support. More on this later.


  • 22nd July 2011 – Cutting the side vents

    First real job was to cut the holes in the glass fibre body for both the side vents and pedal box. We started with the side vents. The body arrived with the vent shape and position already embossed from the moulding, so first we ran a marker pen around the edge of the emboss to get the line to cut to, then making smaller drill holes to use as a guide for a bigger hole cutter tool. This left us with a the rough hole, which we then  filed and dremelled back to the marker pen line. This took some time but this is not something to be rushed. Having got the holes reasonably neat and tidy we decided we would stop there and leave the job of getting them A1 perfect to the professionals when we finally get the car into the paint shop. This decision was confirmed the right one by a number of 289 Register members we spoke to at the Silverstone classic show on 22nd July, who said they did much the same when doing their builds. We next need to fix and fit the side vents in place. We’ll do this later.


  • 22nd July 2011 – Starting the body

    As we have now got the rolling chassis to a reasonably finished state, we decided to put some time into starting the body and getting it ready to put back onto the chassis.. There are 4 main jobs we plan to get done before this can happen.

    1. cutting the holes and fitting the side vents – link to post
    2. cutting the hole for the pedal box. actually fitting of the pedal box and master cylinder will be done once the body and chassis are together – link to post
    3. painting the engine bay and outer footwell white (matching the appearance of the original 289 Cobra engine bays) – link to post
    4. manufacture and fit the engine bay heat shields – link to post

    Working with glass fibre is quite a messy and dusty business and would highly recommend wearing a face mask for these jobs.


  • 22nd July 2011 – Rolling Chassis complete

    Here’s the Rolling Chassis. The first real milestone finished.



  • 22nd July 2011 – Finishing off rolling chassis

    We had a few small jobs to get done to finish of the rolling chassis.

    1. Change the Rear Axle shims

    We realised once we got the wheels on the chassis, that there was too much play in the rear wheel baring. After removing the wheels to measure the end float we discovered the original shims we put in when building the axle back in February (read here) were 0.009 ” too big. So we striped the rear hubs to replace the shim, giving a final end float between 0.001- 0.003


    2. Prop shaft safety loop installed

    I’d received the prop shaft safety hoop from Gerry so we thought we’d fit that. It comes in two parts. The support bracket bolts to the chassis with 2 bolts, then four holes need to be marked up and drilled so the hoop can then be bolted to the support bracket.

    propShaft1

    3. Fitting Rear brake pads

    We had the rear pads to put in. This is a fairly simple job. We painted a layer of copper grease on the rear side, this to prevent brake squeal. Then took the retaining pins out to slide the pads into the rear calipers and then secure again with the retaining pins.


  • 8th July 2011 – Exhaust arrived back, then PROBLEMS!

    We received the exhaust back from Camcoat who had done the ceramic coating. This acts as a thermal barrier and will stop them corroding and but more importantly make them look really nicely shiny and blinged up. We opened the box and initially we were really pleased with the result. Don’t they look great! Maybe we spoke too soon!!!


    Exhaust problems

    We were really keen to get them on the car ASAP. So straight to work…. Suddenly we discovered to our horror that some of the bolts were too tight up against the exhaust branch, making it very difficult, if not impossible to get a socket or a spanner on them to tightened up (as you can see from the pictures). This is possibly something we should have checked before sending them for ceramic coating, as at that time we may have been able to dent them in slightly to give more room for the bolts. If we do this now we are concerned we may damage the coating. So we realised we’re going to have to get thinking to find a solution!!! First thought would be to modify the spanner, perhaps by grinding down the wall. We’ll keep you posted. If anyone has an idea please let us know!