Untitled Document
  • 31st May 2012 – Making coolant and heater matrix pipes

    Mark has been busy over the last week or so getting things welded and made. This included the coolant pipe to link the radiator to the header tank and also the heater matrix pipes that will connect from the back of the heater box to the inlet manifold. Both pieces we had made custom hand and welded to our measurement from the car.

    For the coolant link pipe we sourced some 1″3/4 stainless steel pipe. We looked into getting this bent to the 90 degrees we required but unfortunately the radius of the bend would be too great. So we opted to use a 90 degree short elbow, butt welded, and make up the pipe from this. Mark cut the two piece longer than needed before he welded them to the short elbow. After this he cut it to length as well as swaging the ends of the pipe to prevent the silicon pipe slipping off once they are fitted. From this we can now do a temporary fit using some silicon pipe off cuts we sourced. We intend to measure up and eventually get some vintage looking silicon hose for the final fit.

    As for heater matrix pipe, Mark got some 16mm diameter stainless steel pipe and made up all the bits by cutting to length and bent one into the correct position to fit nicely onto the inlet manifold coolant outlet. We could then get them welded together. At this point we also got the stainless steel olives braised on the end to create a lip. This again to prevent the silicon hose coming off when its connected.

  • 31st May 2012 – Water temp gauge & heater outlet union

    We look at fitting the water temperature gauge and heater matrix pipes but before we could do this we needed to get some new unions in order to fit them.

    The problem we had with the water temperature gauge was that the original part that came with the coolant temp gauge (the silver adapter in the picture) was to small for the thread in the inlet manifold which was 5/8 BST (British Standard pipe Thread). Mark asked his mate with a lathe if he could help and he kindly made us up a brass union with the correct thread that now fits the manifold 1/2inch NPT (National Pipe Thread). He did this using 1″ hex brass rod then tapped a 1/2 NPT thread on one side and for the other side they measured the diameter of the original union which was 0.650 diameter x 19TPI (threads per inch). He then used this measurement to screw cut the thread on the lathe.

    The other union we needed was for the heater matrix outlet pipe to connect to the inlet manifold. He made this to match the 16mm stainless steel pipe that we had for the heater matrix pipes. He then tapped a 3/8 NPT thread to the end to enable it to be screwed in the the manifold. While we were at it we got him to make some stainless steel olives to be braised to the heater matrix pipes.

  • 6th May 2012 – Throttle linkage (final modifications)

    As we had decided to adapt the lower bracket for the throttle linkage mechanism back on 20th April (link to post), Mark had polished the bracket up so it was ready to fit a final time. It had occurred to us that it might be best to do a few other modifications at this point, just to increase the overall strength of the linkage system.

    Firstly Mark decided to weld 2 extra flanges to the throttle pedal housing while also using a square plate underneath to sandwich the fibre glass. This will divert the pressure away from the heads of the bolts to help stop creaking or worse the bolts ripping through the fibre glass.

    The second addition was to strengthen the position of the rose joint on the top of the footwell. Originally we had just drilled and secured this through the top of the footwell. Again we thought there was still potential for a small amount of movement due to the flex of the fibreglass. To help stop this flexing and any potential of the bolt ripping out, we made 2 rectangular plates to fix above and below (inside the footwell), again to sandwich the fibreglass and spreading the load and making it all more rigid. This in turn will give a more responsive pedal as there will be less flex and movement in the top of the pedal box.

    Firstly we cut the pieces and mounted for the position, then spent some time polishing up before doing the final fit. At this stage we had 2 polishing wheels on the go in the shed so while we were at it we also decided to polish up the throttle housing as well. Even through this sits under the wing, its nice to get everything nice and shiny.

  • 6th May 2012 – Mounting the header tank

    As Mark had spent the time polishing it up we now thought about mounting the header tank into the engine bay. It sits in the space between engine and radiator and the chassis has a mounting bracket which makes it easy to secure using stainless steel jubilee clips. Due to the size of the engine and the tight engine bay around the exhaust, the engine bay temp and coolant temp will be higher. As a result we could also see higher pressure in the cooling system, so we decided to get a Stant high pressure racing cap with a WP (working pressure ) of 18-20 lbs. We now just need to get the hoses to connect it all up.