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  • 3rd November 2012 – Final picture of the day

    After we had tidied up we took and couple more pictures that show the progress made today. We hope more progress coming soon.


  • 3rd November 2012 – Making inner door panels


    The final job for the day we decided should be to start the interior. Having spoken to Gerry and a few 289 members a while ago, they suggested to get the best possible finish in the interior would be to fill in the recesses in and around the doors using patterns and expanding foam. This we hope will give the doors and body a much more solid sound and feel when the doors are slammed shut. Stewart Clarke also decided to do with his build.

    So we set about making cardboard templates for the door panels and the areas around the doors. We had some spare aluminium sheet left over from the engine bay heatshields so decided to make the door patterns out of this. We then secured into place using double sided foam to make a decent seal and finally screw into place on the doors using 6 screws. We will eventually drill small holes in this panel to fill behind with the expanding foam.

    The patterns around the doors were a little more tricky to get right. We made 2 parts each side, one below and around the doors and a second part to fit and fill the area above the door latch. As these shapes were a little more complex, we decided it would be better to make these from a spare piece of hardboard Mark had in his shed rather than in the sheet aluminium.

    We hadn’t got any expanding foam so we haven’t fully fitted them as yet, but eventually we will drill small holes in the patterns and fill behind them with the foam and fixing them into place. More to come on this in later posts.


  • 3rd November 2012 – Fitting the Roll bar

    The next job of the day we decided would be to fit the roll bar. We were very excited to take delivery a week ago as we had been waiting for it to arrive back from the chromer for quite some time. Once again though, it was worth the wait as the quality is very good so we were keen to get it fitted to see now it looked .

    The roller basically comes in 2 parts, being the loop section that sits behind the drivers seat and the diagonal cross bar that sits across the cabin and fixes next to the transition tunnel through a plate in the chassis underneath the passenger footwell.

    First up was fitting the loop part. This simply fits using 3 bolts, 2 through the seat belt framework we installed back in March and 1 bolt through the chassis from underneath.  Firstly we had to carefully measure where the hole should be cut in the body. We drilled a small pilot hole before using a dremel to slowly increase to hole to the correct size . We used a cardboard template while dremelling but in the end we found that sitting a toilet paper tube underneath was perfect template to use. We thought while we were at it that we would also measure and cut out the hole for the filler cap at the same time using a hole cutter.

    Next up was to drill the hole to allow the longer leg of the bar to be bolted to the chassis from underneath. Although there is a hole already in the chassis this isn’t so easy to get at. We had to jack up the back end slightly for Mark to get underneath and drill through. It was close to where the rear wiring loom was located so we were careful not to go through that while drilling. Next we could mark up and drill the two holes to bolt the hoop to the framework.  One side uses the bolt that fixes the frame to the support straps in the boot and the other side just needs an additional bolt through the frame.

    We were ready to fit the hoop.  I should also say that we plan to source some rubber grommets for the holes where the hoop goes through in the body to finish this all off really nicely. We also provisionally put in the filler cap to see how it would look, although we also plan to properly fit this later.

    We were onto fitting the cross bar now. This attaches to the hoop with the cap head screw provided. The build manual stated that we should aim to fix the bottom end as close to the transition tunnel as possible, so we provisionally fitted the transition tunnel so we could get an idea of the position. We pulled the end of the bar across as much as possible which meant cutting a small amount out of the flange on the tunnel to allow the end of the bar to sit flush with the floor. It was then a case of drilling and bolting through the steel plate on the chassis outrigger using the nut and bolt supplied.


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  • 3rd November 2012 – Fitting the rear lights

    Its been 6 weeks or so since out last build instalment, in that time we have been patiently waiting for parts to arrive, but we managed to arrange another day to get on with it again.

    First job of the day we thought should be to fit the rear lights, as the last job we had done was to fit the front ones. The standard Cobra rear lights we ordered are Lucus 542, but unfortunately these aren’t “e marked” and therefore not compliant for the SVA test. so the plan for now is to fit Land Rover lamps which are compliant.

    We once again used Stewart Clarkes build as a reference for this job. As Stewart had done, we first of all made up some templates and drilling guides to make sure the Land Rover lamps and holes where in a suitable location and would be inside the shape for the Lucus lamps we eventually plan to fit. Once we got the templates all lined up and marked we then used a 30mm hole cutter to drill the holes and a demmal to slightly increase the holes where required to allow the rear of the lamps to pass through. We found that cutting the outer rubber casing at the back of the lights allowed us to get them through without making the hole too big. We then fitted the lamps using 3 screws for each.

    These’s no way they are as nice looking as the Lucus versions but we have to make sure we are compliant.

    We still need to fit the rear fog light and reversing lights which is necessary for the SVA test, plus number plate light and reflectors. more on this in later posts.