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  • 15th May 2013 – Front grill arrived.

    We received our long awaited front grill from Gerry this morning. Very happy! Hopefully we’ll get it fitted soon.


  • 6th April 2013 – Oil temp, coolant temp & Oil Pressure capillary pipes

    Next job we decided to do was to connect up the oil temperature, coolant temperature and oil pressure gauges. This involved feeding the capillary pipes from the back of the gauges through the front bulk head into the engine bay. We started by laying the dash face down across the transmission tunnel in the cabin just in front of where it will be fitted. We had to cut 3 holes through the bulk head either side of the heater unit big enough to suit the grommets provided with the gauges. We decided to put the oil temp and coolant temp on the drivers side and oil pressure through the passenger side. This way we could run the pipes down either side of the inlet manifold and p-clip above the rocker covers. The grommets supplied stretched to allow the bulbs to pass through and then neatly sit around the thinner capillary pipes afterwards.

    We then ran the oil temp and coolant temp pipes along the top of the rocker covers on the offside and the oil pressure pipe along the rocker cover on the near side and neatly secured them in place using P clips.

    There is an outlet on the front of the engine for the oil pressure switch and the oil pump. The oil temperature then connects to the sump and coolant temp to the top of the inlet manifold. We ran PTFE tape around the thread of the coolant temperature connector when fitting.


  • 6th April 2013 – Fuel tank – final fit

    Next job of the day was to do the final fit of the fuel tank. The fuel tank had been in and out a few times and we had a few attempts to find the perfect position for it, but now we were ready to get it in for good. We took a little time fitting the level sender unit. The sender comes with an adjustable float arm that needs to be set to the right length and Mark had sorted this little job out previously. Basically the arm is made of two lengths of wire clipped together, one is connected to the sender and one has a bent end that clips to the float.  To get the correct length Mark first measured the depth of the tank, then measured the length of the arm with the float in the fully empty position. He adjusted the length of the arm so that when fitted and in the empty position the float would hover just above the bottom of the tank. Once we were confident it was correct, he then soldered together the two wires to prevent them later coming apart at the bottom of the fuel tank.

    You can refer to our previous post about preparing the fuel tank and sender here

    Next, with the wiring instructions to hand Mark rigged up a temporary circuit to connect the fuel gauge, voltage stabiliser and sender unit via the battery. This was in order to calibrate the gauge and make sure it correctly read full and empty in relation to the movement of the float and sender. Once we had established this was all working correctly we then fitted the sender with 6 screws and fitted the tank in place using brackets that bolts through the boot floor and the rear bulk head. This time we decided to nyloc all the nuts.

    Once the tank was in we could then do the final fit of the fuel filler cap.  We had done this previously but this time we fitted the rubber fuel pipe and secured it with 2 jubilee clips to seal it between the neck of the tank and the underneath of the filler cap flange. We had decided to modify the filler cap assembly back in January, by wielding the 2 bottom sections together. This made it slightly more fiddly to get the nuts and bolts in, nevertheless we think it was a worthwhile modification to halt any potential for fuel leaks in the future.


  • 6th April 2013 – Spare wheel well – final fit

    Once the rear wiring harness was sorted out we moved onto fitting the spare wheel well. This is a hexagonal fibreglass section that came as part of the body from Gerry. It is best to fit this while the fuel tank is out as the tank slightly overlaps the rear edge. Its relatively easy to fit. We used dum dum putty to make a seal around the edge and bolted it down with 24  flat head bolts (4 on each side), which we counter suck  in place.



  • 6th April 2014 – Rear wiring harness

    So… after a few months of inactivity, we got a day back on the build. Things have had to take a back seat for the last few months.We intended to get the boot all sorted out. This included doing the final fit of the fuel tank and also fitting the spare wheel well.

    The first job of the day was to sort out the rear wiring harness. For extra protection, Mark had bought some 10mm wiring conduit that we decided to fit around the part of the wiring loom coming through the rear bulk head and through the inner sill under the drivers door. So we fitted it and also taped it all up using wiring loom tape before feeding it through the bulk head into the cabin around the rear wheel arch and behind the panel below the door and into the drivers foot well where eventually it will be connected to the loom behind the dash. We had previously installed some 20mm plastic wiring conduit tubing behind the door panel when we fitted the panels (read about that here). As planned this made feeding the loom through much easier and kept the wires all nicely hidden. The only exposed part round the rear wheel arch we neatly secured in place a with plastic p clips.