Untitled Document
  • 16th November 2014 – Fitting new Clutch lines

    As we had replaced the old clutch release slave cylinder with the new Hydraulic throw-out  release bearing, we decided we would also replace the braided hose that we originally installed to connect the master cylinder to the clutch release with proper brake pipe.  We originally mounted a braided hose back in June 2011 when we fitted the brake pipes but we felt that installing a new line using brake line would look must better. The clutch pipe runs parallel with the brake line around the front of the chassis to connect to the new clutch release input line on the near side of the gear box bell housing.

    Mark firstly flared the end of the line connecting to the master cylinder and connected it up before carefully running the new line around the front parallel to the brake lines. We used 5mm P-clips and self tapping screws to secure in place.  The final job will be to connect up the new clutch release input line of the new hydraulic bearing using a female AN-4 fitting screw. Unfortunately we didn’t have one to hand so we have ordered one to fit later.

    NewClutch13NewClutch14

    NewClutch15NewClutch16NewClutch17NewClutch18


  • 15th November 2014 – Fitting new Clutch release – Part 2

    Once the new bearing was measured and fitted correctly it was then a case of reinstalling the transmission and connecting back to the bell housing.

    Important point is always have the AN-4 line with the bleeder valve at the top when the bearing is properly adjusted.  The bleeder valve must be at the top position when fitted.

    Getting the transmission back in was a bit of a fiddle, while feeding the lines through the old fork hole opening in the bell housing. It is important to check that these lines do not make contact the spinning clutch and flywheel when the engine is running.

    NewClutch9

    We were mindful of the fact that we needed to protect these 2 lines so we decided to finish of the job by making a simple plate that would cover the opening in the bell housing where the original clutch fork protruded and have the 2 lines pass through this plate, using 2 grommits to protect them from potential chafing. The bellhousing had 2 holes on the back and side that were close to the opening  that would be ideal to bolt into to secure a plate to the outside.  Firstly we had to tap a thread into these holes. The holes were different sizes, we put a 10mm bolt on the back side, with a 6mm bolt on the side.

    We then made up a simple cardboard template to shape and marked the 2 places where the 2 securing bolt hole would be. Once confident we had is right we marked it up and cut it out in aluminium sheet. We then bent it to shape using the vice while continually checking the shape against the side of the bellhousing. It took a bit of time to get this right. Once we had is correct we finally marked up and drilled 16 mm holes for the 2 lines to pass through. Although this plate will be mostly out of sight we decided to give it a quick polish as well.

    Before the final  fit we decided to use double sided rubber foam on the back side of the plate to create a good seal between the plate and the bellhousing, while also to prevent any unnecessary rattling that may occur.

    NewClutch10NewClutch11

    We are really happy with the final fit. We think its a really tidy solution. Not only do we believe that using the “Throw out bearing clutch release” will give us a more responsive clutch but we have managed solve the clearance problems we had with the original slave cylinder and the clutch arm.

    NewClutch12


  • 15th November 2014 – Fitting new Clutch release – Part 1

    In order to fit the new clutch release it meant us taking out the gear box. So we got to it, unbolting the prop shaft, and the 4  front bolts that bolted the gearbox to the bell housing. With the gearbox out we could then go about fitting the new bearing.

    NewClutch4NewClutch3

    Fitting the McLeod Hydraulic Throw-Out Bearing

    NewClutch5

    Step1:

    You must screw the “Adjusting screw” all the way into the bearing assembly. We then slipped the bearing assembly onto the input shaft collar on the transmission. Be sure the tapered side of the adjusting screw goes on the transmission collar to sit against the base of the collar. The bearing should fit tight.

    Step2:

    There are two important measurement that need to be taken to make sure the bearing is fitted correctly and has enough clearance.

    Dimension A: With the bell housing, flywheel,disc and pressure plate bolted to the engine, measure the distance from the rear surface of the bell housing to the top of the release fingers on the pressure plate.

    Dimension B: Measure from the front of the transmission to the front face of the release bearing.

    NewClutch6NewClutch7

    You then have to subtract “Dimension B” from “Dimension A”. This will give the clearance from the bearing to self adjust. The total allowable clearance should be between 0.100″ and 0.150″. You can adjust the distance by screwing out the bearing until the proper clearance is achieved. One complete turn will provide 0.06″ movement forward. There is also an extra spacer that comes with the kit which you can use if required to make the clearance. We found that using the spacer with one turn of the the bearing gave us a clearance of 0.123″ which was perfect.

    NewClutch8


  • 15th November 2014 – Clutch fork problems

    ClutchForkProblem1

    There was a little problem that we have needed to sort. That was namely the clutch fork. We realised a while ago when we got the body back on that the clutch fork was way too close to the body to allow it to work. It had already been shortened by Gerry when we bought the kit but it was obvious there was not enough space for it to work.

    Word of warning/advise for anyone building a Hawk kit with this clutch specification. Before you get the body back on check the measurements and the space you have for the clutch fork, as modifying it before the body is back on would have been easier in our case.


    We had tried to get at it with a hacksaw to cut it down  but after a few attempts we realised this was a pig of a job to get too and wouldn’t be a nice finish even if we did manage to shorten it.  We weren’t happy with this clutch release, so Mark decided to go off to do some research about other clutch release methods that might more suitable. Although perhaps not as authentic, we thought that a hydraulic throw back bearing assembly might be a good upgrade which would allow us to ditch the whole clutch slave cylinder and be a much tidier job. We spoke to Real Steel and they suggested a McLeod Slip-On style assembly that would fit our T5 gearbox and clutch.

    NewClutch2