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  • 21st November 2016 – Getting ready to turn the key.

    We had previously connected up the dash and wiring looms as well as mechanical gauge connections, water temperature, oil pressure, oil temperature. These all run directly from the gauges through the bulkhead onto the engine.

    We also had to consider where to run the battery feed cables. As battery shelf is located on the near side of in the engine bay between the foot well and front wheel arch, we drilled a hole through the bulkhead behind the wiper motor unit and fed the battery cables through to connect onto the starter.

    We added some fuel to the tank and we were now, in theory at least, ready to start up. Mark tried and turned the key but realised that something wasn’t quiet right as the engine started but cut out straight away. Knowing that we had fuel pressure, Mark rechecked the wiring to the coil and ballast resistor finding the positive feed to the coil was being pulled down to ground by the wire from the starter. This then killed the coil and the spark. Upon rechecking the wiring on the starter Mark realised the wire for the coil was connected to the incorrect terminal on the starter for the ballest resistor bypass.

    Once this was rectified, the engine started perfectly. We haven’t got any exhaust fitted at the moment so I think we got the attention of most of the neighbourhood. What a noise!

  • November 2016 – Upgrading the fuse box

    Things haven’t moved on as quickly as we had hoped over the last year or so, but we both knew that we weren’t too far away from a big milestone on the build of actually turning that key and getting it started up. We spent a day back in August getting the wiring loom sorted and connected up but with the wiper unit not being finally installed, this had prevented us getting the wiring loom fully connected up and the dash in.

    We had also decided at this point that we weren’t so happy with the older bullet type fuses in the fuse box as these open up and can lose connection when warm. So we decided we would prefer to replace the original fuse box that was part of the wiring harness with a more modern blade type fuse box. We felt this was a good addition at this point as it will be behind the dash and won’t be visible. We also decided to reposition the new fuse box underneath the relays to make them more accessible when the dash is installed.