After setting the toe front and rear we looked at setting the camber. To measure this we used a bar with 2 bolts sticking out, each bolt measured the same distance off the bar. Placing the bar with the bolts up against the wheel with one bolt on the top of the wheel rim and the other bolt on the bottom of the rim. This then gave us a flat surface to measure the camber on.
We had a magnetic angle gauge that we stuck to the bar this gave us the number of degrees camber that the wheel was set to.
We were aiming for -1 degree camber on each wheel this would give us better cornering.
For the rear the camber is set by adding or removing shims between the drive shaft and the diff. There are 2 sets of shims between the diff and the drive shaft on each side. One set between the inboard brake discs, this is for centralising the disc with the calliper. The other is between the outside of the disc and the drive shaft, these are to set the camber.
So as the drive shaft also acts as the top suspension arm the more shims you add the less camber you get and the more shims you remove the more camber you get.
The N/S/R had -2.5 degrees and the O/S/R had -1.5 degrees so we add some shims to both side to get the -1 degree on both sides.
The front camber was a lot easier to set this used a cam bolt off set the position. So by loosening off the nut of the bolt then turning the bolt this ether made the lower mounting closer or further away from the chassis altering the camber. Once we got the correct setting we tightened the bolts.
Once the camber was set front and rear we knew this could affect the rest of the suspension set up so we rolled the car forward and backwards bouncing the suspension to settle it.
We rechecked all the suspension measurements again and just had to adjust the front toe correctly again.