Untitled Document
  • 26th October 2013 – Connecting Master cylinders & reservoirs


    Connecting up the master cylnder with the clutch and front and rear brakes was something we had wanted to get done for a while and not got around to.

    We ran in the front and rear brake pipe in June 2011 and had left the pipe loose ready for connection. Firstly Mark cut down the front to rear brake pipe to size and then  bent the pipe around to fit the unions, carefully doing so without trying to cause a kink in the pipes. He then double flared the ends of the pipes that would connect into the unions. The rear brakes we connected to the central master cylinder.


    Mark then made up a new piece of pipe to connect the right hand master cylinder to where the brake switch union sits on the front right hand part of the chassis. Again, taking his time carefully bending the pipe to shape without causing the pipe to kink. This would then connect up the 2 front brakes to the master cylinder. Once all the pipes were bent in place Mark then neatly secured these pipes to the chassis with P-clips.



    Last job was to connect the clutch slave cylinder to the left hand master cylinder. The clutch pipe runs around the front of the chassis to connect to the clutch slave cylinder on the near side of the gear box bell housing. We again had mounted this back in June 2011 together with the brake pipes. YOu can read about this here


    The bracket for the reservoirs we had mounted previously. This sits between the end of the pedal box and the inner wing. The 3 reservoirs sit on top. The final job was to connect these up with flexi-pipes to each of the master cylinders. Initial we connected these with the standard rubber pipes that were sent with the kit from Gerry, but due to these being a little too short we decided to invest in some longer braided pipes from Graham Goodes motor supplier which took a week or so to arrive, but we think look loads better.



  • 22nd July 2011 – Finishing off rolling chassis

    We had a few small jobs to get done to finish of the rolling chassis.

    1. Change the Rear Axle shims

    We realised once we got the wheels on the chassis, that there was too much play in the rear wheel baring. After removing the wheels to measure the end float we discovered the original shims we put in when building the axle back in February (read here) were 0.009 ” too big. So we striped the rear hubs to replace the shim, giving a final end float between 0.001- 0.003

    2. Prop shaft safety loop installed

    I’d received the prop shaft safety hoop from Gerry so we thought we’d fit that. It comes in two parts. The support bracket bolts to the chassis with 2 bolts, then four holes need to be marked up and drilled so the hoop can then be bolted to the support bracket.


    3. Fitting Rear brake pads

    We had the rear pads to put in. This is a fairly simple job. We painted a layer of copper grease on the rear side, this to prevent brake squeal. Then took the retaining pins out to slide the pads into the rear calipers and then secure again with the retaining pins.

  • 4th June 2011 – Handbrake and prop shaft

    We put in the handbrake lever and prop shaft. These were quite easy to install. We had to source the bolts for the prop shaft, which we got from a Landrover dealer Mark knows, and are from a Landrover Defender. Next we’ll have to fit the prop shaft safety loop.

    The handbrake was installed using counter sunk bolts then we connected the handbrake cable to the hand brake lever. We’ll leave the adjustment until later.

  • 4th June 2011 – Brakes pipe installation

    We decided to get on with installing the brake pipes. We ordered the brake pipe kit from Gerry with the Hawk kit containing all of the pipe and fittings. The build manual shows the rough route for the pipes.

    Running the pipe in

    First thing was to run the pipe down the offside of the chassis. We fitted rubber grommets into the ready made holes in the outrigger and piercing holes through them as we ran the pipe through. We then carefully measured the postions for the P-clips to hold the pipe, 7.5 inches apart. We then drilled the holes and used galvanised self tapping screws to secure them. P-clips are provided in the kit to suit the 3/16” pipe. We actually found there wasn’t quite enough in the pack, so we had run around town looking for a place that sold them in this size. In the end Halfords had some.

    Connecting the rear calipers

    Then we had to connect the pipe to the rear calipers, running the pipe carefully into place. This took a little time and was a bit of a fiddle, connecting and then disconnecting again to get the bends in the pipe just right. We bent the pipe carefully using our hands, ensuring that the pipes didn’t get kinked, but once we had the rough shape we used a vice to get the bends really neat and tidy. We also used a flaring tool to flare the end of the pipe that fit inside the brake pipe unions.

    Connecting up the front calipers

    Next was to run the front brake lines in. We started by fitting the front 4 way adaptor. This is held on by the small threaded bar that comes welded to the chassis. There is one on both sides of the chassis depending on it being a RHD or LHD car. The offside one is used for RHD cars. We secured it in place with a M6 nut. We then put the flexi hoses in, connecting the front calipers to the 4 way adaptor via a short piece of brake pipe (flaring both ends). The offside was quite easy to connect BUT running the brake pipe around to the nearside proved to be a bit more difficult as the engine was in the way. So we jacked the chassis up onto axel stands to gain access to the front cross member from underneath. In hindsight, this would have been easier to do before the engine was installed, but nevertheless we got there eventually. We actually used the same holes to mount the clutch pipe brackets at the same time making the final job very neat and tidy.

    We won’t be able to connect the whole system up yet until the body is back on and the master cylinders pedal box are installed but we have done most of the work now.

  • May 2011 – Rear brakes – Rear axle complete

    Unfortunately we haven’t spent much time on the build in recent weeks due to holidays, Marks university work and other things taking priority. We have spent some time ordering lots of new parts though and Mark has done a few bits and bobs. We are planning to get more build time over the summer and make some really solid progress.

    Here’s a little update from recent weeks.

    Firstly, we have now replaced the old rusty bottom ccntre bolts through the base of the differential with the shiney new ones we were waiting to arrive.

    Having built up the rear calipers back in April, Mark has now also installed them onto the rear axle again. Attaching with 2 bolts and then lock wiring them in place. Then connecting the handbrake cable to the handbrake calipers. Other than a bit of tinkering, thats the back axle complete. Even though it has been a bit of hassle and time getting all the parts together, it has been a great learning curve, and we are now really pleased with the way it has turned out.


  • 2nd April 2011 – Rear Calipers arrived back and get re-assembled

    The rear calipers arrived back all zinc plated and all shiny. They have done a great job. Mark spent some of Saturday building them with his new apprentice, little Phoebe (showing off her new spanner skills)! First picture show the original condition, coming off the donor axle, then the next stage after sand blasting and cleaning and then following on the pics show the stages of re-assembly after zinc plating. Now they’re ready to be refitted to the back axle which we’ll do the next weekend we get free to work on the car.