Untitled Document
  • 20th Feb 2016 – Repositioning the heater box

    While we were looking at installing the wiper box motor, wiper mechanism and wheel boxes, we realised, not for the first time, that we had a problem. We had originally installed the heater box directly to the back of the bulkhead behind the dash ¬†using rivets (read the post here). When looking at installing the wiper mechanism, we realised that the position of the heater box didn’t give us any room above it and thus compromised the position of the wiper cable mechanism and bundy tube that houses it. The only solution was to rethink the position of the heater box and reinstall it.
    Firstly, we had to roughly mount the dash to work out how much room there would be behind the dash once this is installed together with the wiring loom. As we suspected the space behind the dash is very tight and doesn’t give much room to play and to find the new position for the heater box. After some fiddling and some discussion we thought that moving its position back and down while also tilting the angle slightly ¬†forwards would probably work best. Firstly this gave us enough clearance above the heater box for the wiper mechanism but also allowed the angle of lower heater outlets to be aimed more into the cabin rather onto the lower bulkhead. 2 positive outcomes!
    In order to install the heater box in this new position we realised that we would have to make 2 new brackets as well as extend the pipes from the back of the heater in order to connect it back up to the heater matrix on the other side of the bulkhead within the engine bay. This took some time to get the angle of the pipes just right to get them to protrude correctly. Once complete we then remounted the heater using rivets to secure the heater and the the new brackets back to the bulkhead.




  • 6th April 2013 – Oil temp, coolant temp & Oil Pressure capillary pipes

    Next job we decided to do was to connect up the oil temperature, coolant temperature and oil pressure gauges. This involved feeding the capillary pipes from the back of the gauges through the front bulk head into the engine bay. We started by laying the dash face down across the transmission tunnel in the cabin just in front of where it will be fitted. We had to cut 3 holes through the bulk head either side of the heater unit big enough to suit the grommets provided with the gauges. We decided to put the oil temp and coolant temp on the drivers side and oil pressure through the passenger side. This way we could run the pipes down either side of the inlet manifold and p-clip above the rocker covers. The grommets supplied stretched to allow the bulbs to pass through and then neatly sit around the thinner capillary pipes afterwards.

    We then ran the oil temp and coolant temp pipes along the top of the rocker covers on the offside and the oil pressure pipe along the rocker cover on the near side and neatly secured them in place using P clips.

    There is an outlet on the front of the engine for the oil pressure switch and the oil pump. The oil temperature then connects to the sump and coolant temp to the top of the inlet manifold. We ran PTFE tape around the thread of the coolant temperature connector when fitting.

  • 15th September 2012 – Heater demister vents

    We’ve been having some supply problems with some parts over the last few weeks which has held us up a little. Even so we decided to get another day in on the build as we had several smaller jobs that needed to be done.

    The first job of the day was to fit the heater demister vents that will feed warm air onto the windscreen. We had decided to install the cobra aluminium vents which are slightly longer than MGA ones. We plan to eventually polish these up at a later stage and get them looking really nice.

    The body is marked with previsional positions for the vent holes but as we already had the windscreen fitted we found these marking to be a little close to the screen (perhaps due to the increased rake of the LeMan screen). So we spent a little time carefully measuring and working out the best position for them. In the end we basically moved them back about 2cm from the previsional markings.

    Once the position was sorted we removed the screen so we could do the drilling, dremelling and filing of the holes. Before fixing the vents into place we decided we could also fix the heater matrix vents to the underside of scuttle which will eventually be behind the dash and connect to the heater matrix. Due to the body having a slight curve we lined the edges with a foam padding in order to give them a decent seal against the underside of the body when fitted. It was then just a case of using the screws and nuts provided to fit vents above and below the scuttle.

  • 4th August 2012 – Heater matrix pipe fitted

    We gave the heater matrix a good polish before we did the final fit with the silicon pipes. Mark had made the pipes back in May – read post here

  • 27th July 2012 – Silicone water pipe arrived

    We received all the water pipes and T-bolt clamps. A few week before we had used some old off cut pieces of pipe to make templates of the sizes and angles we required. The pipes required to connect between heater box and the heater matrix pipes where a little more complex as they needed a double 45 degree bend, so Mark decided to make a template from copper pipe bent to the correct position. We then went about ordering them in a classic Silicone finish from DerbyPerformanceHose . The classic silicone pipe has a more vintage look to them which is what we are after. When they arrived we simply had to cut them to length before fitting. We are really happy with the way they look.

  • 8th June 2012 – Fitting the radiator fans

    The radiator fans arrived from the supplier. We original spoke to Gerry about what to go for and he suggested getting twin 10 inch blow fan kit from Pacet that would sit at the front of the radiator. We also decided to get a thermostat switch which we’ll install later when we get the wiring loom fully fitted. For now we thought we’d just get the fans in.

    The 2 fans come with a full fitting kit including quick mountings to connect the fans together. Mark cut one of the bolt down to allow the thread to screw into one mounting then strewed the other mount on the other side. He then fixed the mounts to the fans this fixed the 2 fans together.

    Next was to fix them into place on the car. This was fairly straight forward using the 8 zip ties provided. These feed through the thin flattened tubes and fix the other side. On to the next job… There is still so much to do!

  • 31st May 2012 – Making coolant and heater matrix pipes

    Mark has been busy over the last week or so getting things welded and made. This included the coolant pipe to link the radiator to the header tank and also the heater matrix pipes that will connect from the back of the heater box to the inlet manifold. Both pieces we had made custom hand and welded to our measurement from the car.

    For the coolant link pipe we sourced some 1″3/4 stainless steel pipe. We looked into getting this bent to the 90 degrees we required but unfortunately the radius of the bend would be too great. So we opted to use a 90 degree short elbow, butt welded, and make up the pipe from this. Mark cut the two piece longer than needed before he welded them to the short elbow. After this he cut it to length as well as swaging the ends of the pipe to prevent the silicon pipe slipping off once they are fitted. From this we can now do a temporary fit using some silicon pipe off cuts we sourced. We intend to measure up and eventually get some vintage looking silicon hose for the final fit.

    As for heater matrix pipe, Mark got some 16mm diameter stainless steel pipe and made up all the bits by cutting to length and bent one into the correct position to fit nicely onto the inlet manifold coolant outlet. We could then get them welded together. At this point we also got the stainless steel olives braised on the end to create a lip. This again to prevent the silicon hose coming off when its connected.

  • 31st May 2012 – Water temp gauge & heater outlet union

    We look at fitting the water temperature gauge and heater matrix pipes but before we could do this we needed to get some new unions in order to fit them.

    The problem we had with the water temperature gauge was that the original part that came with the coolant temp gauge (the silver adapter in the picture) was to small for the thread in the inlet manifold which was 5/8 BST (British Standard pipe Thread). Mark asked his mate with a lathe if he could help and he kindly made us up a brass union with the correct thread that now fits the manifold 1/2inch NPT (National Pipe Thread). He did this using 1″ hex brass rod then tapped a 1/2 NPT thread on one side and for the other side they measured the diameter of the original union which was 0.650 diameter x 19TPI (threads per inch). He then used this measurement to screw cut the thread on the lathe.

    The other union we needed was for the heater matrix outlet pipe to connect to the inlet manifold. He made this to match the 16mm stainless steel pipe that we had for the heater matrix pipes. He then tapped a 3/8 NPT thread to the end to enable it to be screwed in the the manifold. While we were at it we got him to make some stainless steel olives to be braised to the heater matrix pipes.

  • 6th May 2012 – Mounting the header tank

    As Mark had spent the time polishing it up we now thought about mounting the header tank into the engine bay. It sits in the space between engine and radiator and the chassis has a mounting bracket which makes it easy to secure using stainless steel jubilee clips. Due to the size of the engine and the tight engine bay around the exhaust, the engine bay temp and coolant temp will be higher. As a result we could also see higher pressure in the cooling system, so we decided to get a Stant high pressure racing cap with a WP (working pressure ) of 18-20 lbs. We now just need to get the hoses to connect it all up.

  • 21th April 2012 – Polishing bits up

    Mark had bought a new polishing set from the internet and decided to put it to work by polishing up the newly wielded throttle linkage bracket and header tank. They look amazing and now ready to fit. Hopefully we’ll get another weekend soon to get the build moving forward again. Watch this space.