Untitled Document
  • 21st November 2016 – Getting ready to turn the key.

    We had previously connected up the dash and wiring looms as well as mechanical gauge connections, water temperature, oil pressure, oil temperature. These all run directly from the gauges through the bulkhead onto the engine.

    We also had to consider where to run the battery feed cables. As battery shelf is located on the near side of in the engine bay between the foot well and front wheel arch, we drilled a hole through the bulkhead behind the wiper motor unit and fed the battery cables through to connect onto the starter.

    We added some fuel to the tank and we were now, in theory at least, ready to start up. Mark tried and turned the key but realised that something wasn’t quiet right as the engine started but cut out straight away. Knowing that we had fuel pressure, Mark rechecked the wiring to the coil and ballast resistor finding the positive feed to the coil was being pulled down to ground by the wire from the starter. This then killed the coil and the spark. Upon rechecking the wiring on the starter Mark realised the wire for the coil was connected to the incorrect terminal on the starter for the ballest resistor bypass.

    Once this was rectified, the engine started perfectly. We haven’t got any exhaust fitted at the moment so I think we got the attention of most of the neighbourhood. What a noise!

  • 3rd November 2013 – Air filter fitted


    We received the air filter for the car today that we ordered from Summit racing in America. Mark got onto fitting it straight away. Originally we had to measure and make sure the filter we order would fit underneath the bonnet with enough clearance and space. We established that the optimum size would be either a round 8 inch diameter or a 8 1/2 inch oval set up with a maximum 3 inches  height from the carb flange.

    We looked into both options both in Holley and K&N. Mark was keen on the K&N filter as this is a washable lifetime performance filter with cotton gauze, oil coated element  that will perform better than a paper filter… but we prefered the design of the Holley and also would fit nicely with our Holley carb. So what we did was order the Holley oval 11 3/4 inch x 8 1/2 inch filter along with the K&N air element (which is the same size) and use this with the Holley case.

    As you can see, when fitted, there is enough clearance under the bonnet scoop.




  • 29th October 2011 – Making of coil bracket and fitting

    Over the last week Mark has been busy making a specially made bracket to mount the coil to the engine block. He started by making templates from cardboard before marking up the shapes on aluminium. Then using a hacksaw cut them out and filing down to get the exact shape, always checking the bracket fitted against the engine. He then marked the bolt holes and drilled them out. To do the wield we used our uncle Dave again who helped us TIG wield the pieces together. Final job was to tap a thread in the holes for the bolts, file down the wield smooth and polished it up nice and shiny. The coil is now neatly positioned to the side of the block next to the distributor.

  • 14th August 2011 – The Cobra is alive! – Starting the engine – Part 3

    Starting 1st time

    We got a temporary 5 litre tank of petrol from the garage round the corner and put the end of the fuel line in ready.

    Mark then connected the fuel pump, coil and starter to the battery. The fuel pump then started pumping the fuel through the lines. Mark then made the connection from battery to starter motor and after a couple of coughs, WOW, Cobra 5litre V8 comes to life, what a noise! As expected it was massively loud, especially as we only have the exhaust downpipes connected right now with no exhaust. We gave it a couple of starts and it seemed to start really well. Mark also blimped the throttle a little to give the engine a bit of rev and it really showed the power we’ll have under the hood.

    On the second start, the Cobra decided to bite back a little, the carb backfired slightly at one point when revving it up (as you can see on the video clips below). Mark singed the hairs on his arm, but he’ll live! We guess the backfire is because the timing was to far advanced, but the timing is something we just need to sort out a little so that it’s spot on with the timing light. Hope you enjoy the video clips!!

    Starting 2nd time – Cobra singes Marks arm

  • 14th August 2011 – Starting the engine – Part 2 (fitting the distributor)

    We were then onto fitting the distributor. We fitted the rotor arm to be TDC (top dead centre) for number one cylinder. See diagram for the configuration of distributor cables to cylinders.

    Next was to route the leads, chop them to length, fit them neatly on the spark plugs and then fit onto the distributor cap. We also labeled each lead in turn with the corresponding cylinder numbers. Eventually we will heat shrink the number labels once we have fully timed up the distributor with timing light. We have decided to fit a ballast coil and this requires a ballast resister to be used. This is wired in to the positive side of the coil and reduces the voltage going to the coil which keeps a more stable voltage when the engine is running.

  • 14th August 2011 – Starting the Engine – Part 1

    We decided we’d really like to get the Cobra started before we get the body back on.

    First job was fitting the oil Pressure gauge to the end of the pipe which runs to the adaptor that we fitted to the oil pressure switch out let in the engine block a few weeks ago (Read about that here). Then we connected up the fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator and the fuel line to the carburettor. Next we fitted the oil filter and fill the engine and gearbox with oil.

    Before we fitted the distributor we connected a drill to the oil pump drive through the distributor hole and with the drill running in reverse we drove the oil pump and primed the engine. Also now that we had the oil pressure gauge connected we could make sure the pump could produce oil pressure before starting the engine.

    Next thing was to fit the distributor, coil and the ballast resistor to do this we made a temporary wiring harness. We went for a Hall Effect distributor which does away with the points and condencer. See next post (Starting the Engine – Part 2) for fitting the distributor.


  • 29th July 2011 – Oil Pressure switch and gauge pipe

    Mark got the new oil pressure switch and oil presure gauge today from Real Steel and went about fitting and installing to the engine. He used PTFE tape wrapped tight around the threads giving a really good tight seal on the joints. It then screws directly into the block and fitted the oil pipe connection on the top that will eventually run up behind the dashboard to the oil pressure gauge. The wire for the switch will connect into the end thread and also up to the dash. We’ll wire up the oil pressure light later. 6 pics show his steps.

    This is and extra bit I’ve written, following on from Aaron’s comment about checking that the sender has a good electrical earth.

    As he pointed out, the body of the switch has to earth to the engine and when there is no oil pressure the contact in the oil pressure switch should be closed and therefore there should be 0(zero) OHMS (or close to Zero OHMS) resistance between the centre switch contact and the engine. When there is oil pressure (i.e when the engine is running), the contact is then broken in the switch and would then turn the light out. So if the PTFE tape was stopping the connection between the body of the switch and engine then the oil light would never come on.

    There is a simple way to check there is a good connection. Simply using a multi-meter and switching it to OHM’s resistance, then without the engine running put one lead on the end connection of the switch and the other lead on the engine (as on pic below). You should see round 0(zero) OHMs. If the resistance is too high then you may need to remove some of the PTFE tape so that you get a good seal but also a good connection.

    Thanks to Aaron for contacting us and pointing this out


  • 8th July 2011 – Exhaust arrived back, then PROBLEMS!

    We received the exhaust back from Camcoat who had done the ceramic coating. This acts as a thermal barrier and will stop them corroding and but more importantly make them look really nicely shiny and blinged up. We opened the box and initially we were really pleased with the result. Don’t they look great! Maybe we spoke too soon!!!

    Exhaust problems

    We were really keen to get them on the car ASAP. So straight to work…. Suddenly we discovered to our horror that some of the bolts were too tight up against the exhaust branch, making it very difficult, if not impossible to get a socket or a spanner on them to tightened up (as you can see from the pictures). This is possibly something we should have checked before sending them for ceramic coating, as at that time we may have been able to dent them in slightly to give more room for the bolts. If we do this now we are concerned we may damage the coating. So we realised we’re going to have to get thinking to find a solution!!! First thought would be to modify the spanner, perhaps by grinding down the wall. We’ll keep you posted. If anyone has an idea please let us know!

  • 19th June 2011 – Clutch release slave cylinder

    A spacer is needed for the bracket holding the clutch release… we  fitted it all together first to get the correct distance required for the spacer and get the position of the brackets correct.

    We then found that the edge of braket and the outer bolt for slave cylinder was very close to the chassis. So we ground down the edge of the brackets to match the edges of the slave cylinder, just to prevent it from hitting if the engine kicked.  Also the second part of the braket was pushing in on the rubber of the slave cylinder so to stop this from happening we also ground it away slightly to give it better clearance.

    We disassembled it all, repainted the brakets after grinding them and then got to work making the spacer from a piece of aluminium on Uncle Dave’s lathe. Then reassembled again with spacer and then finally connected the pipe.

    Job done.

  • May 2011 – Exhaust manifold – down pipe problems

    We received the exhaust manifold and down pipes, we ordered from Gerry. The pics show both sides loosely bolted to the engine.
    The problem we noticed was that the down pipe was sitting very close to the engine mountings. This is not good, and after speaking to Gerry, we established they had been wrongly made so he is sending replacements. More on this in later posts.
    We are also looking into getting the manifold and pipes ceramic coated which will act as a thermal barrier and stop them corroding, but more importantly make them look really nicely blinged up.  More on the exhaust in later posts.