Untitled Document
  • 29th July 2011 – Oil Pressure switch and gauge pipe

    Mark got the new oil pressure switch and oil presure gauge today from Real Steel and went about fitting and installing to the engine. He used PTFE tape wrapped tight around the threads giving a really good tight seal on the joints. It then screws directly into the block and fitted the oil pipe connection on the top that will eventually run up behind the dashboard to the oil pressure gauge. The wire for the switch will connect into the end thread and also up to the dash. We’ll wire up the oil pressure light later. 6 pics show his steps.

    This is and extra bit I’ve written, following on from Aaron’s comment about checking that the sender has a good electrical earth.

    As he pointed out, the body of the switch has to earth to the engine and when there is no oil pressure the contact in the oil pressure switch should be closed and therefore there should be 0(zero) OHMS (or close to Zero OHMS) resistance between the centre switch contact and the engine. When there is oil pressure (i.e when the engine is running), the contact is then broken in the switch and would then turn the light out. So if the PTFE tape was stopping the connection between the body of the switch and engine then the oil light would never come on.

    There is a simple way to check there is a good connection. Simply using a multi-meter and switching it to OHM’s resistance, then without the engine running put one lead on the end connection of the switch and the other lead on the engine (as on pic below). You should see round 0(zero) OHMs. If the resistance is too high then you may need to remove some of the PTFE tape so that you get a good seal but also a good connection.

    Thanks to Aaron for contacting us and pointing this out


  • 8th July 2011 – Exhaust arrived back, then PROBLEMS!

    We received the exhaust back from Camcoat who had done the ceramic coating. This acts as a thermal barrier and will stop them corroding and but more importantly make them look really nicely shiny and blinged up. We opened the box and initially we were really pleased with the result. Don’t they look great! Maybe we spoke too soon!!!

    Exhaust problems

    We were really keen to get them on the car ASAP. So straight to work…. Suddenly we discovered to our horror that some of the bolts were too tight up against the exhaust branch, making it very difficult, if not impossible to get a socket or a spanner on them to tightened up (as you can see from the pictures). This is possibly something we should have checked before sending them for ceramic coating, as at that time we may have been able to dent them in slightly to give more room for the bolts. If we do this now we are concerned we may damage the coating. So we realised we’re going to have to get thinking to find a solution!!! First thought would be to modify the spanner, perhaps by grinding down the wall. We’ll keep you posted. If anyone has an idea please let us know!

  • May 2011 – Exhaust manifold – down pipe problems

    We received the exhaust manifold and down pipes, we ordered from Gerry. The pics show both sides loosely bolted to the engine.
    The problem we noticed was that the down pipe was sitting very close to the engine mountings. This is not good, and after speaking to Gerry, we established they had been wrongly made so he is sending replacements. More on this in later posts.
    We are also looking into getting the manifold and pipes ceramic coated which will act as a thermal barrier and stop them corroding, but more importantly make them look really nicely blinged up.  More on the exhaust in later posts.

  • 13th November 2010 – Engine adaptions-Rocker covers-PCV valve-Oil filler

    The sump

    The sump had be fitted with an adapter for the oil temperature gauge. This was wielded into the sum. To check the wield had no pin holes we filled the sump with petrol to check for leaks. We then painted it up and refitted it to the engine.

    PCV valve adaped:

    Originally we were told to fit the PCV valve just using high temperature silicon. when we did this we found it to be quite a loose fit, so Uncle Dave to the rescue again, who milled out the hole in the rocker cover and made a top hat piece that fitted the top of the rocker cover and allowed the rubber seal to fit perfectly.

    Oil filler Adaption:

    Originally when we fitted the oil filler, it was quite long and we thought didn’t look as good as it could. So we modified it slightly, shortening the neck and making it look a lot better.

  • 13th November 2010 – Engine build continues – bottom pully

    We weren’t so happy with the way the original spacers that came with the engine for the bottom pulley. They used spacer between the pulley and the mass damper which didn’t look great. We spoke to our uncle Dave, who has his own engineering shop, to see what he thought and whether he could do any better. He came up with a idea to make a single unit that would work as a spacer and also incorporated the tool to centralise the pully. We gave him the measurements and he made it from a solid block of aluminium on his lathe. We think the single unit is a better looking solution than the original spacers.


  • 16th October 2010 – Engine build

    Having taken receipt of the engine a few weeks ago we both put a weekend aside to start building the engine.First job was to crank the engine block up and connect it to an engine stand to allow us to work on it. As all the bits are brand new, things went together fairly quickly.We started by fitting the inlet manifold using the correct gaskets and high temperature silicon and then also fitted the rocker covers using liquid gasket and cork gaskets.


    Next came the water pump and alternator. Once we installed the alternator, we discovered a small problem. Firstly we had installed the alternator lower down on the near side of the engine using the bracket provided. This would be ok on some other car models, but we realised that due to the position of steering rack on our cobra that once the engine was in that this alternator position would conflict with the steering rack. We were keen to use as many of the original brackets as possible so after a bit discussion came up with the solution. It would mean making a small aluminium bracket to enable us to mount the alternator up high on the near side.

    We managed to get a piece of aluminium from our uncle Dave, (a very handy bloke to know when built a kit car). Mark then cut out the required shape based on a cardboard template. When drilled, polished it up and mounted it to the engine it looked spot on. Job Done!