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  • 6th April 2013 – Fuel tank – final fit

    Next job of the day was to do the final fit of the fuel tank. The fuel tank had been in and out a few times and we had a few attempts to find the perfect position for it, but now we were ready to get it in for good. We took a little time fitting the level sender unit. The sender comes with an adjustable float arm that needs to be set to the right length and Mark had sorted this little job out previously. Basically the arm is made of two lengths of wire clipped together, one is connected to the sender and one has a bent end that clips to the float.  To get the correct length Mark first measured the depth of the tank, then measured the length of the arm with the float in the fully empty position. He adjusted the length of the arm so that when fitted and in the empty position the float would hover just above the bottom of the tank. Once we were confident it was correct, he then soldered together the two wires to prevent them later coming apart at the bottom of the fuel tank.

    You can refer to our previous post about preparing the fuel tank and sender here

    Next, with the wiring instructions to hand Mark rigged up a temporary circuit to connect the fuel gauge, voltage stabiliser and sender unit via the battery. This was in order to calibrate the gauge and make sure it correctly read full and empty in relation to the movement of the float and sender. Once we had established this was all working correctly we then fitted the sender with 6 screws and fitted the tank in place using brackets that bolts through the boot floor and the rear bulk head. This time we decided to nyloc all the nuts.

    Once the tank was in we could then do the final fit of the fuel filler cap.  We had done this previously but this time we fitted the rubber fuel pipe and secured it with 2 jubilee clips to seal it between the neck of the tank and the underneath of the filler cap flange. We had decided to modify the filler cap assembly back in January, by wielding the 2 bottom sections together. This made it slightly more fiddly to get the nuts and bolts in, nevertheless we think it was a worthwhile modification to halt any potential for fuel leaks in the future.


  • 12th January 2013 – Fitting the fuel tank and filler cap

    The job of fitting the fuel tank and the fuel filler cap really have to go hand in hand. When we were fitting the rollbar we had provisionally fitted the fuel tank in position and decided to cut the hole for the neck of the filler cap. After looking at it for a few weeks we weren’t 100% happy with the position due to it being a little off set from the centre of the roll bar, so we decided to try to adjust the tank and cap position a little to get it more central. The build manual gives a good description about how to do this. In our case though, as we had already made the provisional hole, it meant fitting the tank in position again, shifting it across to the nearside as much as possible. We could then see how much we needed to move the hole which we had to extend slightly with the dremel. With a little hindsight we wished we hadn’t been as hasty drilling the hole originally as we could have made a neater job of this if we’d fully considered the position of the tank properly measured it, but we consoled ourselves with the thought that this hole would never been see again once everything is fitted so its not too much to worry about. We will of course tidy it up as much as possible

    Once the hole was big enough it was then the case to find the correct position for the screw holes. So we fitted the filler cap to the flange in the vice as tight as possible, as it would eventually be on the car and positioned the clip and hinge of the cap so that it would sit perpendicular to the length of the car. That then gave us the position for the screw holes which we marked and drilled. Once this was done we could do the final fit together with the gasket and nuts and bolts.


  • 12th January 2013 – Preparing the tank for fitting

    We were on to fitting the fuel tank next but before we could fit it we had to first prepare the tank. As advised in the manual, firstly we lined the sides of the tank that would sit against the rear bulk head and the boot floor with neoprene rubber to cushion the tank against the body. We also did the same with the inside of the 2 angled brackets that would secure the tank in place.

    Next we fitted the fuel sender unit in the correct position at the top of the tank. Mark actually had to have this adjusted and welded a few weeks ago to make it shorter to suit the depth of our tank. We also fitted the fuel line banjo and breather banjo to the tank at this point.


  • 5th January 2013 – Filler cap more modifications

    We had seen that there was no seal between the cap and the fuel filler flanges, so we thought there might be a potential for fuel to leak when cornering and also via vapour leakage. So Mark sourced some CAR FUEL OIL Nitrile Rubber Gasket Material 3mm from eBay that would do nicely to make some seals. We made one for the fuel cap itself to seal to the flange and one to seal the fuel filler extension pipe flange for when this would be attached to the lower section when the roof is fitted.

    Mark also bought some O Rings for the second flange, which were 84mm ID with a 3.5mm cross section.


  • 5th January 2013 – Fuel filler modifications

    We decided to modify the lower sections of the fuel filler cap assembly. Mark was worried that if the O ring seal between the 2 pieces ever failed, with the roof fitted, there was a potential for fuel to leak through into the boot when filling up. So Mark decided it might be best to welding these piece together as one single unit which would stop this possibility.


  • 5th October 2012 – Fuel filler cap and flanges arrived

    We received the fuel filler cap and all the connection flanges but I hadn’t added this to the blog til now. These pieces are custom made and hats of to Gerry again as they are beautifully made. As we are building the 289 LeMan with the detachable hard top roof, this is the larger Original Style Alloy Racing Cap which has the second filler adaptor piece that will attach to the roof and allow the hard top to be easily fitted or removed.


  • 17th March 2012 – Fuel Tank arrives

    We took delivery of the fuel tank today. More to follow on this once we get around to fitting it.


  • 25th February 2012 – New braided fuel pipe

    We planned to get some more time on the car this weekend. We have planned to get most of the little job under the bonnet out of the way today. First job was to fit the new braided fuel pipe that Mark got made a few weeks ago to replace the rubber one we originally had. We fitted the connecter to the fuel regulator and ran the pipe through to connect to the carb. Mark had made a new bracket that bolts to the top of the inlet manifold which will eventually serve as the attachment for the springs onto the throttle linkage, but is also perfect to attach a stainless steel P clip to hold the fuel pipe in the correct position and to prevent it rubbing on the plug leads.
    The last job will be to polish up the bracket nice and shiny, which we’ll do later on. Onto the next job…


  • 23rd January 2012 – Fuel pressure regulator(fuel king) & connecting to carb

    Happy New Year to everyone. Just a quick update as the last post was a while ago now. The cobra build was put on hold over christmas as I was away in NYC and Mark had his Uni work to crack on with. Even so, we have ordered more bits, fuel tank, radiator, throttle linkage, that we are waiting to arrive. We’re hoping to get some stuff done this weekend so more posts coming soon.
    Mark has spent a little time fitting the fuel pressure regulator to the nearside inner wing, see pic below. He then cut a piece of fuel pipe to length to fit from the carb to the fuel filter/regulator. Now that we have a piece of pipe to length, we have sent it to BGC Motor sport components to make a braided pipe with the banjo connectors to go from the carb.



  • 4th June 2011 – Installing fuel lines and fuel pump

    After the brake lines, we moved onto the fuel line installation. Again, we bought the fuel line kit from Gerry at Hawks Cars which included all of the pipes that are needed to go from the fuel tank through to the carb. We bought some insulated stainless steel P clips to mount the fuel line to the vertical face of the chassis tube, and as we did for the brake pipes, measured the position for the clips 7.5inches apart, drilled the holes and used galvanised self tapping screws to secure them. Also as before, feeding the pipe through the rubber grommets and ready made holes on the near side of the chassis. We used a stanley knife to cut a big enough hole in the grommet for the pipe to pass through.

    The Fuel Pump

    We weren’t happy with the mounting for the fuel pump, as there were no rubber anti vibration mounts. This, we thought, might cause trouble later on with vibration once the fuel pump was working. Also having read Stuart Clarkes experience on the 289 Register website about his build and installation of the the fuel pump, we decided to make a triangle bracket to mount the pump to the chassis using 3 anti vibration mounts (2 to be secured through the holes in the chassis, 1 lower down as extra support to keep the pump from flopping over). Fortunately Mark found a couple of brackets on a shelf in the shed that were almost perfect, so all we had to do it drill out the holes a little to get them to fit. We then sprayed them up black.
    As for the anti vibration mounts, we just went down to a local car parts place and managed to get some rubber cotton reel type anti vibration mounts used for the vauxhall vectra. The threads were obviously different so Mark had to use his tap and die set to make a new thread for the screw hole in the chassis. Apart from that it fitted nicely.

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    Once mounted using the rubber mountings the fuel pump is pretty solid although can wobble slightly due to the rubber mountings, so we cut a square piece of rubber and super glued that to the chassis directly underneath to protect the chassis should the pump vibrate too much and hit.

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    At this stage we can’t do any more with the the lines as the fuel tank is situated within the boot. We’ll have to do the final fit once the body is back on. We hope very soon!