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  • 6th April 2013 – Fuel tank – final fit

    Next job of the day was to do the final fit of the fuel tank. The fuel tank had been in and out a few times and we had a few attempts to find the perfect position for it, but now we were ready to get it in for good. We took a little time fitting the level sender unit. The sender comes with an adjustable float arm that needs to be set to the right length and Mark had sorted this little job out previously. Basically the arm is made of two lengths of wire clipped together, one is connected to the sender and one has a bent end that clips to the float.  To get the correct length Mark first measured the depth of the tank, then measured the length of the arm with the float in the fully empty position. He adjusted the length of the arm so that when fitted and in the empty position the float would hover just above the bottom of the tank. Once we were confident it was correct, he then soldered together the two wires to prevent them later coming apart at the bottom of the fuel tank.

    You can refer to our previous post about preparing the fuel tank and sender here

    Next, with the wiring instructions to hand Mark rigged up a temporary circuit to connect the fuel gauge, voltage stabiliser and sender unit via the battery. This was in order to calibrate the gauge and make sure it correctly read full and empty in relation to the movement of the float and sender. Once we had established this was all working correctly we then fitted the sender with 6 screws and fitted the tank in place using brackets that bolts through the boot floor and the rear bulk head. This time we decided to nyloc all the nuts.

    Once the tank was in we could then do the final fit of the fuel filler cap.  We had done this previously but this time we fitted the rubber fuel pipe and secured it with 2 jubilee clips to seal it between the neck of the tank and the underneath of the filler cap flange. We had decided to modify the filler cap assembly back in January, by wielding the 2 bottom sections together. This made it slightly more fiddly to get the nuts and bolts in, nevertheless we think it was a worthwhile modification to halt any potential for fuel leaks in the future.

  • 12th January 2013 – Fitting the fuel tank and filler cap

    The job of fitting the fuel tank and the fuel filler cap really have to go hand in hand. When we were fitting the rollbar we had provisionally fitted the fuel tank in position and decided to cut the hole for the neck of the filler cap. After looking at it for a few weeks we weren’t 100% happy with the position due to it being a little off set from the centre of the roll bar, so we decided to try to adjust the tank and cap position a little to get it more central. The build manual gives a good description about how to do this. In our case though, as we had already made the provisional hole, it meant fitting the tank in position again, shifting it across to the nearside as much as possible. We could then see how much we needed to move the hole which we had to extend slightly with the dremel. With a little hindsight we wished we hadn’t been as hasty drilling the hole originally as we could have made a neater job of this if we’d fully considered the position of the tank properly measured it, but we consoled ourselves with the thought that this hole would never been see again once everything is fitted so its not too much to worry about. We will of course tidy it up as much as possible

    Once the hole was big enough it was then the case to find the correct position for the screw holes. So we fitted the filler cap to the flange in the vice as tight as possible, as it would eventually be on the car and positioned the clip and hinge of the cap so that it would sit perpendicular to the length of the car. That then gave us the position for the screw holes which we marked and drilled. Once this was done we could do the final fit together with the gasket and nuts and bolts.