Untitled Document
  • 16th November 2014 – Fitting new Clutch lines

    As we had replaced the old clutch release slave cylinder with the new Hydraulic throw-out  release bearing, we decided we would also replace the braided hose that we originally installed to connect the master cylinder to the clutch release with proper brake pipe.  We originally mounted a braided hose back in June 2011 when we fitted the brake pipes but we felt that installing a new line using brake line would look must better. The clutch pipe runs parallel with the brake line around the front of the chassis to connect to the new clutch release input line on the near side of the gear box bell housing.

    Mark firstly flared the end of the line connecting to the master cylinder and connected it up before carefully running the new line around the front parallel to the brake lines. We used 5mm P-clips and self tapping screws to secure in place.  The final job will be to connect up the new clutch release input line of the new hydraulic bearing using a female AN-4 fitting screw. Unfortunately we didn’t have one to hand so we have ordered one to fit later.

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  • 15th November 2014 – Fitting new Clutch release – Part 2

    Once the new bearing was measured and fitted correctly it was then a case of reinstalling the transmission and connecting back to the bell housing.

    Important point is always have the AN-4 line with the bleeder valve at the top when the bearing is properly adjusted.  The bleeder valve must be at the top position when fitted.

    Getting the transmission back in was a bit of a fiddle, while feeding the lines through the old fork hole opening in the bell housing. It is important to check that these lines do not make contact the spinning clutch and flywheel when the engine is running.

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    We were mindful of the fact that we needed to protect these 2 lines so we decided to finish of the job by making a simple plate that would cover the opening in the bell housing where the original clutch fork protruded and have the 2 lines pass through this plate, using 2 grommits to protect them from potential chafing. The bellhousing had 2 holes on the back and side that were close to the opening  that would be ideal to bolt into to secure a plate to the outside.  Firstly we had to tap a thread into these holes. The holes were different sizes, we put a 10mm bolt on the back side, with a 6mm bolt on the side.

    We then made up a simple cardboard template to shape and marked the 2 places where the 2 securing bolt hole would be. Once confident we had is right we marked it up and cut it out in aluminium sheet. We then bent it to shape using the vice while continually checking the shape against the side of the bellhousing. It took a bit of time to get this right. Once we had is correct we finally marked up and drilled 16 mm holes for the 2 lines to pass through. Although this plate will be mostly out of sight we decided to give it a quick polish as well.

    Before the final  fit we decided to use double sided rubber foam on the back side of the plate to create a good seal between the plate and the bellhousing, while also to prevent any unnecessary rattling that may occur.

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    We are really happy with the final fit. We think its a really tidy solution. Not only do we believe that using the “Throw out bearing clutch release” will give us a more responsive clutch but we have managed solve the clearance problems we had with the original slave cylinder and the clutch arm.

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  • 15th November 2014 – Fitting new Clutch release – Part 1

    In order to fit the new clutch release it meant us taking out the gear box. So we got to it, unbolting the prop shaft, and the 4  front bolts that bolted the gearbox to the bell housing. With the gearbox out we could then go about fitting the new bearing.

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    Fitting the McLeod Hydraulic Throw-Out Bearing

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    Step1:

    You must screw the “Adjusting screw” all the way into the bearing assembly. We then slipped the bearing assembly onto the input shaft collar on the transmission. Be sure the tapered side of the adjusting screw goes on the transmission collar to sit against the base of the collar. The bearing should fit tight.

    Step2:

    There are two important measurement that need to be taken to make sure the bearing is fitted correctly and has enough clearance.

    Dimension A: With the bell housing, flywheel,disc and pressure plate bolted to the engine, measure the distance from the rear surface of the bell housing to the top of the release fingers on the pressure plate.

    Dimension B: Measure from the front of the transmission to the front face of the release bearing.

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    You then have to subtract “Dimension B” from “Dimension A”. This will give the clearance from the bearing to self adjust. The total allowable clearance should be between 0.100″ and 0.150″. You can adjust the distance by screwing out the bearing until the proper clearance is achieved. One complete turn will provide 0.06″ movement forward. There is also an extra spacer that comes with the kit which you can use if required to make the clearance. We found that using the spacer with one turn of the the bearing gave us a clearance of 0.123″ which was perfect.

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  • 15th November 2014 – Clutch fork problems

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    There was a little problem that we have needed to sort. That was namely the clutch fork. We realised a while ago when we got the body back on that the clutch fork was way too close to the body to allow it to work. It had already been shortened by Gerry when we bought the kit but it was obvious there was not enough space for it to work.

    Word of warning/advise for anyone building a Hawk kit with this clutch specification. Before you get the body back on check the measurements and the space you have for the clutch fork, as modifying it before the body is back on would have been easier in our case.


    We had tried to get at it with a hacksaw to cut it down  but after a few attempts we realised this was a pig of a job to get too and wouldn’t be a nice finish even if we did manage to shorten it.  We weren’t happy with this clutch release, so Mark decided to go off to do some research about other clutch release methods that might more suitable. Although perhaps not as authentic, we thought that a hydraulic throw back bearing assembly might be a good upgrade which would allow us to ditch the whole clutch slave cylinder and be a much tidier job. We spoke to Real Steel and they suggested a McLeod Slip-On style assembly that would fit our T5 gearbox and clutch.

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  • 19th June 2011 – Clutch release slave cylinder

    A spacer is needed for the bracket holding the clutch release… we  fitted it all together first to get the correct distance required for the spacer and get the position of the brackets correct.

    We then found that the edge of braket and the outer bolt for slave cylinder was very close to the chassis. So we ground down the edge of the brackets to match the edges of the slave cylinder, just to prevent it from hitting if the engine kicked.  Also the second part of the braket was pushing in on the rubber of the slave cylinder so to stop this from happening we also ground it away slightly to give it better clearance.


    We disassembled it all, repainted the brakets after grinding them and then got to work making the spacer from a piece of aluminium on Uncle Dave’s lathe. Then reassembled again with spacer and then finally connected the pipe.

    Job done.


  • 4th June 2011 – Brakes pipe installation

    We decided to get on with installing the brake pipes. We ordered the brake pipe kit from Gerry with the Hawk kit containing all of the pipe and fittings. The build manual shows the rough route for the pipes.

    Running the pipe in

    First thing was to run the pipe down the offside of the chassis. We fitted rubber grommets into the ready made holes in the outrigger and piercing holes through them as we ran the pipe through. We then carefully measured the postions for the P-clips to hold the pipe, 7.5 inches apart. We then drilled the holes and used galvanised self tapping screws to secure them. P-clips are provided in the kit to suit the 3/16” pipe. We actually found there wasn’t quite enough in the pack, so we had run around town looking for a place that sold them in this size. In the end Halfords had some.

    Connecting the rear calipers

    Then we had to connect the pipe to the rear calipers, running the pipe carefully into place. This took a little time and was a bit of a fiddle, connecting and then disconnecting again to get the bends in the pipe just right. We bent the pipe carefully using our hands, ensuring that the pipes didn’t get kinked, but once we had the rough shape we used a vice to get the bends really neat and tidy. We also used a flaring tool to flare the end of the pipe that fit inside the brake pipe unions.

    Connecting up the front calipers

    Next was to run the front brake lines in. We started by fitting the front 4 way adaptor. This is held on by the small threaded bar that comes welded to the chassis. There is one on both sides of the chassis depending on it being a RHD or LHD car. The offside one is used for RHD cars. We secured it in place with a M6 nut. We then put the flexi hoses in, connecting the front calipers to the 4 way adaptor via a short piece of brake pipe (flaring both ends). The offside was quite easy to connect BUT running the brake pipe around to the nearside proved to be a bit more difficult as the engine was in the way. So we jacked the chassis up onto axel stands to gain access to the front cross member from underneath. In hindsight, this would have been easier to do before the engine was installed, but nevertheless we got there eventually. We actually used the same holes to mount the clutch pipe brackets at the same time making the final job very neat and tidy.


    We won’t be able to connect the whole system up yet until the body is back on and the master cylinders pedal box are installed but we have done most of the work now.
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  • 26th March 2011- Installing Engine and transmission 3

    Gearbox next. – The bellhousing had to be modified slightly by drilling two holes in order to fit the clutch fork mounting pivot. We sent this to Gerry a few months ago as he has a special jig for this.
    The gearbox is then bolted to the Bellhousing and the clutch fork (with pivot mechanism) and throw out bearing are installed. The gearbox and bellhousing are then put together with the engine and clutch. This went together quite easily.
    The bracket for the hydraulic clutch mechanism has to be put in place – more on this later.
    Finally we fitted the starter motor in place.

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  • 26th March 2011- Installing Engine and transmission 2

    Next was splash plate and then the Flywheel. Firstly we spray painted the splash plate silver before putting it in position and installing the fly wheel. Before the fly wheel is bolted on, it’s best to press in the dowels for location of the cluch cover. They were quite tight so we used a rubber hammer to get them in. All torqued up to 85 ft/Ib using Locktite on all the threads. You also need to lock the flywheel to enable you to get to the torque when tightening up else the flywheel turns. We simply wedged a lever bar between the gear box bolt and ring gear which worked fine.

    Next was the Clutch plate the clutch cover. The clutch plate can be aligned using a alignment tool but Mark managed to align it by eye, fairly easily with a bit of fiddling. Then torque up the clutch cover bolts to 36ft/Ib (opposite to opposite), job done.

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  • 26th March 2011 – Installing Engine and Transmission 1

    Once the wheels are on, we were in a position to drop the engine in. We had previously built the engine up on an engine stand, so it was just a case of transfering engine from the stand to chassis. Obviously first thing was 2 bolts to attach the engine mounts. These are slightly offset on either side. Then we cranked it up on a metal bar running the width of the garage. All in very quickly.

     
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  • 11th August 2010 – GearBox arrived

    Mark picked up the gear box and bell housing from PowerTorque engineering in Coventry and then assembled them together. Its a T5 box by Ford that would fit a Mustang etc, but is a perfect fit for our 5.0 litre-Ford V8-302 engine that is due to arrive towards the end of August.


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