Untitled Document
  • 10th March 2018 – Windscreen washer jets, reservoir, pump and piping


     

    Mounting the screen washer reservoir.

    We had sourced a really nice aluminium 2L reservoir tank and we decided the best place to mount this was on the bulk head inside the engine bay. The feeder pipe would then run through the bulkhead to the washer pump, this was to be mounted behind the dash and the connected up to the jets with washer pipe. We marked the position of the tank drilled the holes for the M8 bolts and a smaller hole for the feeder pipe directly underneath the tank.

     
    Before fixing into position we thought it best to attach a strip of neoprene on the back of the tank to prevent the tank rattling and rubbing against the bulk head. We also installed the outlet connection to the base of the tank and connected the feeder pipe.
     

    Mounting the screen washer pump.

    This was fairly straight forward. The modified brackets we made for the heater box were a natural position to mount the washer pump. We decided to mount this using M5 bolt and rivet nuts. We could then connect this up to the wiring harness.

     
     

    Mounting the Washer Jets.

    The gelcoat on the body had small position marks showing where to mount the washer jets in front of the windscreen, so we drilled holes and mounted the jets in place. Behind the dash we could then connect up the pipes from the pump to the end of the 2 jets using a T-piece this also had a one way valve to stop the wash fluid running back. By dipping the ends of the washer pipe into boiling water this made the pipe more supple and made it easier to push the pipe on to the connections.
     


    Once we were confident everything was connected up, we filled the tank with water to test. Initial it worked well but the water pressure soon dropped. We tried to work out why but soon realised this was down to the seal on the reservoir tank. When the water was being drawn through, the seal was causing a vacuum inside the tank. So we realised that we needed to drill a small hole in the filler cap reservoir tank to allow air in and for the water to be pulled through.

     
    The final job was to fit the dash. Rather than using the nuts and bolts we used previously, we decided to put rivet nuts in the chassis which makes the dash feel really solid now it is fitted. The cover for the dash is temporary at this stage until will get through the IVA test, which is when we intend to install the glove box and cover the dash with a real leather finish.

     


  • 29th March 2016 – Installing wiper motor & mechanism

    Next up is the Windscreen wipers. We had already drilled and fitted the wheel boxes (you can read about this post here) but we had to fit the motor and driver cable. Originally we used wooden blocks to temporarily mount the wheel boxes at the correct angle but as part of the motor kit we also sourced rubber spacers that sit underneath the body to replace these wooden blocks which are a much neater solution.

    Firstly we assembled the whole motor mechanism running the cable through the bundy tube and wheelboxes. It is important to ensure that the window wiper rack is well greased before it is all assembled. The drive cable that connects the motor to the motor boxes sits inside bundy pipe. The 3 sections of pipe all came as part of the kit and were cut to the correct length with the ends already flared to fit.

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    The motor is designed to be positioned on the top of the passenger footwell with the driver cable running through the bulkhead and behind the dash. It is important to ensure that the bend in the bundy pipe is sufficient enough to pass through the bulkhead but not severe enough to impact the motion of the cable inside. This means positioning the motor unit at an angle and quiet far underneath the wing. We drilled one hole through the bulkhead for the bundy pipe and gentle bent it to shape before connecting it all up to mark and drill the motor mounting holes in the top of the passenger footwell. It’s virtually impossible to measure everything accurately to find the final position and drill the holes before hand.

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  • 16th August 2014 – Fitting the windscreen wipers

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    So we decided to get on with the build again after several months going by without anything being done.

     

    First job of the day was to fit the windscreen wipers in place.

     

    There are 2 marks in the body moulding where the wipers should be located. The windscreen wiper wheel boxes protrude from underneath the body at a forward angle so firstly we marked them up and drilled a small pilot hole through the body using the angle from the chrome fitting as a guide. We then followed on by drilling a bigger 16mm hole then used a file to carefully get the final shape.

     

    We fitted the wheel boxes underneath the body behind the dash but due to the angle they need to be fitted at we decided to make an extra wedge shaped piece of wood that we hope will give more support. It was simply a case fitting the wheel box, marking the angle and cutting the wood to shape. Then it was easy enough to fit then in place tightening up the bolt on the stork.

     

    The final thing  was to fit the wipers and wiper blades. These came from Gerry and look great. We needed to bend the arm a little to get them to fit perfectly with the screen which wasn’t difficult. We put them in the vice and carefully tapped with a rubber hammer until we got them the right shape.

     

    The next job will be to fit the motor and connect them up. More to come on this.

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  • 3rd November 2012 – Fitting the Roll bar

    The next job of the day we decided would be to fit the roll bar. We were very excited to take delivery a week ago as we had been waiting for it to arrive back from the chromer for quite some time. Once again though, it was worth the wait as the quality is very good so we were keen to get it fitted to see now it looked .

    The roller basically comes in 2 parts, being the loop section that sits behind the drivers seat and the diagonal cross bar that sits across the cabin and fixes next to the transition tunnel through a plate in the chassis underneath the passenger footwell.

    First up was fitting the loop part. This simply fits using 3 bolts, 2 through the seat belt framework we installed back in March and 1 bolt through the chassis from underneath.  Firstly we had to carefully measure where the hole should be cut in the body. We drilled a small pilot hole before using a dremel to slowly increase to hole to the correct size . We used a cardboard template while dremelling but in the end we found that sitting a toilet paper tube underneath was perfect template to use. We thought while we were at it that we would also measure and cut out the hole for the filler cap at the same time using a hole cutter.

    Next up was to drill the hole to allow the longer leg of the bar to be bolted to the chassis from underneath. Although there is a hole already in the chassis this isn’t so easy to get at. We had to jack up the back end slightly for Mark to get underneath and drill through. It was close to where the rear wiring loom was located so we were careful not to go through that while drilling. Next we could mark up and drill the two holes to bolt the hoop to the framework.  One side uses the bolt that fixes the frame to the support straps in the boot and the other side just needs an additional bolt through the frame.

    We were ready to fit the hoop.  I should also say that we plan to source some rubber grommets for the holes where the hoop goes through in the body to finish this all off really nicely. We also provisionally put in the filler cap to see how it would look, although we also plan to properly fit this later.

    We were onto fitting the cross bar now. This attaches to the hoop with the cap head screw provided. The build manual stated that we should aim to fix the bottom end as close to the transition tunnel as possible, so we provisionally fitted the transition tunnel so we could get an idea of the position. We pulled the end of the bar across as much as possible which meant cutting a small amount out of the flange on the tunnel to allow the end of the bar to sit flush with the floor. It was then a case of drilling and bolting through the steel plate on the chassis outrigger using the nut and bolt supplied.


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  • 15th September 2012 – Heater demister vents

    We’ve been having some supply problems with some parts over the last few weeks which has held us up a little. Even so we decided to get another day in on the build as we had several smaller jobs that needed to be done.
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    The first job of the day was to fit the heater demister vents that will feed warm air onto the windscreen. We had decided to install the cobra aluminium vents which are slightly longer than MGA ones. We plan to eventually polish these up at a later stage and get them looking really nice.
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    The body is marked with previsional positions for the vent holes but as we already had the windscreen fitted we found these marking to be a little close to the screen (perhaps due to the increased rake of the LeMan screen). So we spent a little time carefully measuring and working out the best position for them. In the end we basically moved them back about 2cm from the previsional markings.
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    Once the position was sorted we removed the screen so we could do the drilling, dremelling and filing of the holes. Before fixing the vents into place we decided we could also fix the heater matrix vents to the underside of scuttle which will eventually be behind the dash and connect to the heater matrix. Due to the body having a slight curve we lined the edges with a foam padding in order to give them a decent seal against the underside of the body when fitted. It was then just a case of using the screws and nuts provided to fit vents above and below the scuttle.


  • 4th August 2012 – Fitting the Windscreen

    We had ordered the windscreen from Gerry a while ago and arranged to go and collect it. We were keen to fit it straight away so got to it. As we are building the 289 Le Man, we were aware that screen rake is slightly more than the roadster to accommodate the detachable roof, so it was essential to fit the windscreen together with the roof in order to get them to fit together perfectly.
    The first job was to cut the holes in the body where the pillar legs go through. This was fairly easy as the fibreglass had small marks from the cast indicating the position. The positions for demister vents and window wipers are also marked but we’ll fit them later. Just to make sure we laid the screen flat over the front so the pillars were over the points where they’d enter the body. We found that the marks were fairly accurate. Also the build manual states that the hole should start 31 5/8” +- 1/8” from the back of the doors. This was also the case, so we were confident we were on track.
    We then could drill and dremel out the holes for the pillars before we got the roof in position. We measured 2 1/8 inch in from the inner door for the position of the roof as recommended in the build manual, but we found that once the roof went on the top of the body that it sat naturally (more or less) in the correct position. We also put the upper boot lid in place at this point to check the back of the roof sat perfectly inline with the line of the boot lid. After a little fiddling to get the position perfect we clamped it solidly into place.
    we then slid the screen in to check the position. We found we had to do this few times, extending the hole slightly bigger each time until the screen sat comfortable in the correct position against the rim of the roof. We also cut some small pieces of ply wood and positioned them under the screen when fitting to allow a 3mm gap (as recommended in the manual) between the frame and body. Once we were happy everything was right we then clamped the pillars firmly into place ready to drill for the bolts.
    The next job was to drill the pillars and scuttle frame plates. The build manual advises fitting aluminium spacers if required, we found pillars were flush with the scuttle frame plates so none were needed. We then drilled through and bolted secure with 3 hole M8 bolts either side. We plan to replace these later with round headed cap bolts for the sake of being SVA compliant. The final thing was to put the covering plate in position that covered the hole in the body and the the centre bracket. Due to the increased rake we found we had to file the holes out on these a little to get them to fit flush with the body.
    Job done! We may need to take the screen out to do the heater vents but more on this later. Once we had the screen and roof in position though it suddenly gave us a great impression of how the finished car will look and made me feel we are really making some progress.